Why Rajshahi is the Place to be Right Now

 Nusaira Amreen Hassan 

As the unpredictable weather patterns in the country swings between hot and cold, the average Bangladeshi enjoys the quintessential fruit of the season that is mainly mango. With Eid knocking on the doors, the modern Bengali family rushes to the major fashion outlets, and one of their favorite sartorial choices include silk clothes. This silk and the fruit have one thing in common, which is the fact that they both belong to Rajshahi, one of the biggest divisions of Bangladesh.

Rajshahi is especially renowned for delicious and mouth-watering mangoes. In the monsoon season, not only the people of the region, but also those of the entire country enjoy these tasty fruits. In fact, in the western part of the main city of Rajshahi, in close proximity to the railway station, a garden known as Kashia-Danga is located, which is comprised of groves of mango trees . As a result, the city has also paid tribute to this delicious type of fruit by constructing a landmark of concrete mangoes.

The sumptuous list of delicacies does not stop at mangoes. Rajshahi is also famed for its characteristic sweetmeats, which are unique to the region.

Rajshahi has a roaring silk trade; the sarees are especially famous and are bought by people from all over the country along with being coveted by foreigners. As a matter of fact, Rajshahi is home to numerous silk industries and the Silk Research Institute. Also, the division’s sericulture or silk farming output accounts for almost the entire silk output in Bangladesh.

Another virtue of Rajshahi is that it is known as the “Education City” of Bangladesh and is one of the most important centers of spreading knowldege in the country.The University of Rajshahi is the second oldest public university in the country and also happens to be have one of the largest campuses in Bangladesh. Built in 1953, the massive establishment overlooks a glistening body of water.

Rajshahi University is also responsible for the maintenance of the oldest museum in the country, Varendra Research Museum. Built over a hundred years ago, this ancient museum is dedicated to showcasing the history and culture of the region.

The educational institutions of the division of Rajshahi are engulfed by verdure. Whether it is the Polytechnic Institute or one of the main colleges, Rajshahi College, the buildings are flanked by trees and the former establishment overlooks a glistening body of water.

Rajshahi College, one of the oldest establishments in the country, not only serves as a place to sharpen the future minds of the country, but also stands as a relic of the Colonial era. The British style of architecture makes this college a historical site. The greenery is not just restricted to the educational institutions but also extends to the parks of the division, with the Central Park being a sight for sore eyes with acres of tall trees which provide shade to passers-by.

Recently, Rajshahi was credited as being the least polluted region of the country. Before, the northern division of the country was infamous for being one of the most polluted cities in this part of the world. In accordance to recently published United Nations data, Rajshahi has created history by getting rid of harmful air particles that were detrimental to human health. Funnily enough, the residents of Rajshahi were pleasantly surprised to discover the feat achieved by the people of this region. As a matter of fact, there was a whopping 67.2% decrease in the concentration of the chemical particle PM10, a dangerous pollutant. This amazing deed was attained largely due to a green-drive initiated almost fifteen years ago in the city, which involved tackling traffic issues by importing battery-powered rickshaws from China as well as banning the mobility of large vehicles such as trucks on the main roads of the city during the daytime. Efforts were also made to veritably cover every inch of soil with trees in an initiative known as “zero soil”.  The collective endeavour to save the environment also involved the construction of pavement for the benefit of pedestrians. And Rajshahi did not stop there; they are also building the first bicycle lane in the country, to reduce the number of private cars on the roads.

Modern Rajshahi is located in the ancient region of Pundravardhana. An examination of historical remains has revealed that the foundation of Rajshahi city goes back to the early 1600s. The region has more than its fair share of ancient buildings, with the Shiva temple in Puthia (a place in Rajshahi), which is particularly noteworthy. The Puthia Temple complex is comprised of the oldest and the largest number of historical temples in Bangladesh. The unique architecture of these temples, coupled with the intricate terracotta designs that adorn the walls of the places of worship, attract many visitors to the temple complex.

Starting from mangoes to silk sarees, Rajshahi has it all. In fact, whether it is the fresh air or the historical attractions that have caught your attention, Rajshahi is the place to be at right now. 

Hidden Treasures of Bangladesh

Rainul Islam

We often hear people proclaim the richness of the natural beauty of our country but have you ever wondered why? Sure, you’ve visited the long shores of Cox’s Bazar, trekked to the heights of Keokradong and peaked through the lovely clean waters of Saint-Martin. But to limit ourselves to the mainstream is to grossly under-sell the natural beauty of our country. Today, we invite your attention to some of the lesser known and /or lesser traveled destinations of Bangladesh which deserve just as much love, admiration and acclaim as its more popular counterparts.

WATERFALLS GALORE

NAFAKUM AND AMIAKHUM WATERFALL, BANDARBAN

Often hailed as the “Niagra Falls” of Bangladesh, Nafakum Waterfall is one of the largest and most gorgeous waterfalls in the country. Despite its jaw-dropping beauty, however, Nafakum is also amongst one of the lesser ventured destinations due to the relatively extreme journey that it demands from would-be travelers.

For instance, for someone traveling from Dhaka the journey would be something like this: an 8-hour bus journey to Bandarban followed by another 3-4 hours bus journey to Thanchi where travelers would need to take permission from the BGB and enter their contact details for safety reasons. Thereafter, you would need to hire engine-boat(s) for the exploratory journey to Remarki through giant rocks dispersed in the Sangu River. At this point, travelers are well-advised to spend the night here at the hospitable local tribal houses before continuing their journey to Nafakum early next morning which will include hours of walking and trekking too.

Clearly, the journey is a major obstacle for many interested in travelling but this is also what puts Nafakum, along with Amiakhum, at the top of our list of Hidden Treasures of Bangladesh. The water is still clean and the nature still innocent of manly interventions, and quite frankly, the journey itself is worth it for the more hardcore travel-enthusiasts.

As a bonus for those who dare to take the aforementioned journey, you will be rewarded with the equally enticing scenery of Amiakhum which is also situated in Bandarban, near Myanmar border.

Notable Mentions:

·         Jadipai: also situated in Bandarban; the water is transparent and on a lucky day, you may be blessed with the awe-striking view of a rainbow forming at the bottom of the fall

·         Richang Waterfall (often pronounced “Risang”): located in Khagrachori, Chittagong; relatively easy to get to and covered in more greenery than the other waterfalls on the list.

FOREST FEST

RATARGUL

Ratargul Swamp Forest, located in Sylhet, is the only swamp forest in Bangladesh. The forest can dive as deep as 30 feet under water during monsoon and usually sits at about 10 feet deep in other seasons.

It is the creation of a surreal marriage between a freshwater swamp and an almost poetic forest of Koroch trees “growing” out of the cool, clean water. Admittedly, the forest has become more famous in recent years but with its unparalleled capacity to provoke one’s senses, we felt it was too big a risk to leave it out in case the reader hasn’t visited this luscious forest yet.

TEKNAF WILDLIFE SANCTUARY

Located in Teknaf of Cox’s Bazar District, and on the banks of the Naf River, it is the only game reserve in Bangladesh and a truly bio-diverse one at that. The sanctuary comprises an area of an astounding 11,615 hectares and boasts a number of attractions, none more so than the opportunity to see wild elephants in all their magnificence and the Kudum Cave, which harbours two different species of bats and is often known as the “Bat Cave.” Additionally, the destination has a plentiful plant-life, a wide species of birds and activities including hiking trails varying in terms of length and difficulty.

MAGICAL WATERBODIES

BOGA LAKE, BANDARBAN

Much like Nafakum Waterfall above, Boga Lake really is one of the must-visit places yet quite a challenge to get to as well. In fact, it is inaccessible by any means of transport. For those who take the trouble to take the uncomfortable steps to this destination, however, awaits glad tidings indeed. It is unquestionably one of the most beautiful destinations on the list with its heavenly view that’s soothing both to the eyes and the heart. The lake is bounded by lush greenery, hills, cliffs and rocks. It is a perfect place for nature or peace lovers to stay overnight, watch stars, read books or share ghost stories, especially in light of a famous legend about the very birth of the lake.

SHUSONG DURAGPUR OF BIRISHIRI, NATROKANA

Also known as the China Clay Hills, its main attractions are the ceramic hills beside the water that culminate into possibly the most picturesque destination on the list. Those into water travels will also appreciate the chance to row-boat along the Someshwari River.

Unfortunately, though, all things worth having (or visiting in this case) do not come easy; this particular place is as remotely located as being near the Indian border itself.

CHITTAGONG NAVAL BEACH

You hear Chittagong and beach – what do you think about? Cox’s of course. While Cox’s, St. Martin and Teknaf rightfully attract more tourists we feel the naval beach (dockside) in Chittagong is also worth a quick visit. The main attractions here include three distinct parts of the beach each giving quite a different feel than the others. The abundance of hair-floating breeze that makes for great selfies and the thumb-sized local piyajus are alone enough to regularly attract a swarm of young adults every Friday.

Notable Mentions

·         Shitalakshya River, Demra: the main attraction is the short trip from the center of Dhaka. It’s easy to rent out professional tour guides who will take you on a private cruise with delicacies including fish grilled on the boat itself. It makes for a perfect get-away or celebration of something dear with a large group.

·         Floating Rice Market, Barisal: technically not a tourist spot but worth a mention nonetheless.

MYSTERIOUS HIDEOUTS

MUKTAGACHA RAJBARI, MYMENSINGH

Reminiscent of the iconic monkey temple in Jungle Book, the famous Rajbari is one of the oldest Zamindar palaces in Mymensingh. While some may find it undesirable that a large portion of the complex is not properly maintained, it is the lack of proper maintenance that makes it a must-visit destination for anyone with a taste for unadulterated history and culture.

Sweetening the destination further, quite literally, is the renowned Gopal Pali Prosida Monda Sweet Shop – home to what are probably the best monda sweets in the entire country.

ALUTILA, KHAGRACHORI

Shaped like a man-made underground passage, Alutila is the longest natural cave in Bangladesh stretching about a 100 meters in length. It is enclosed by deep green forests all-round and is rocky, slippery and blindingly dark inside.

Perhaps not for the feint hearted but makes a great choice for the brave and adventurous looking for a different experience.

What’s your favourite hidden destination of Bangladesh? Is it something that falls outside the list above? If so, please write to us in the comments section and let your fellow travelers know too.

1000-year-old Hindu temple excavated in Dinajpur

HASIBUR RAHMAN BILU

A group of archaeologists has recently unearthed a rare Vishnu temple with a unique ‘nava-ratha’ architecture at Madhabgaon village in Kaharol upazila of the northern district of Dianajpur.

Archaeologists from Jahangirnagar University’s department of archaeology in Savar, Dhaka, including its director Prof. Swadhin Sen, Prof. Syed Mohammed Kamrul Ahsan, Prof. Seema Hoque and Sabekunnaher Sithi started an excavation at the site in April this year. They received financial assistance from the cultural affairs ministry and the Higher Education Quality Enhancement Project (HEQEP) of the University Grants Commission (UGC). They also received the support of the department of archaeology.

The 52-member excavation team included four teachers, 13 students and 13 experienced workers from Mahasthan.

They found a seven-metre-high brick-built structure and a 144-sq-metre solidly built platform, with a 4.48-metre square cell at the centre. The cell represents the ‘garbhagriha’ (sanctum) where the idol was worshipped. The external surface of the platform has ‘ratha’ or vertical offset projections at the west, north and south. There are nine ‘rathas’. That is why the temple is known as a ‘nava-ratha’ temple, according to ‘Early Temple Architecture’.

“The temple is about 1,000 years old. It was constructed in the 10th to 11th centuries. No temple of the ‘nava-ratha’ type has been discovered in Bangladesh till now,” said Prof. Swadhin Sen.

He also said radiocarbon dating of the collected samples would shed light on the precise date of the temple.

“The superstructure of the sanctum is characterised by a ‘shikhara’ or ‘rekha deul’ (curvilinear tower). Among the very few existing brick-built standing temples with ‘shikhara’ in undivided Bengal, the Siddheshwar Temple at Bahulara of Bankura in West Bengal has the closest resemblance,” said Prof. Dipak Ranjan Das, a former professor of the University of Calcutta and an expert on early eastern Indian temple architecture.

The same team had discovered a Hindu temple with ‘pancha-ratha’ variety in Nawabganj upazila of Dinajpur in 2007. The four-pillared ‘mandapa’ was possibly capped with a ‘shikhara’ and is known as a ‘pida deul’ (tiered roof) variety.

The team found more artefacts, including a decorated stone image, a good number of broken fragments of stone sculptures, along with pottery, decorated bricks and stone pieces during the ongoing archaeological excavations at the site. The sculptural fragments represent various iconographic attributes of Vishnu, the Hindu deity.

Prof. Syed Mohammad Kamrul Ahsan said this temple was a very good addition to their research in the northern part of Bangladesh over the past 15 years. He added that their team has already excavated nine sites in this region and documented more than 1,000 archaeological sites in the Dinajpur-Joypurhat region. More than 800 among them could be dated to the early medieval period.

The history of river systems and landscapes was crucial for the development of settlements, which had religious edifices at the core. The excavation accompanied by archaeological studies will continue for the next couple of months.

Shared from The Independent

Link: http://www.theindependentbd.com/printversion/details/48037

The Art and Adda Hotel

Farhana Urmee

Through both peace and turmoil, this century-old building in the middle of old Dhaka has been a proud sanctuary for many of our most famous minds.

The name Beauty Boarding may sound like your convenient neighbourhood hair salon, but to many cultural figures, this place has a much deeper significance. If you read Bangla literature, you may have heard of it, as it has made an appearance in various works.

Beauty Boarding was the historical hub of the intellectual adda of Bangali littérateurs, politicians, cultural activists and poets. It has been commemorated in their art and biographies.

The hotel and restaurant is a distinctive two-storied old building, standing proudly in the middle of old Dhaka. A witness of bygone times, Beauty Boarding is far from losing its charm. It still has the power of inspiration for creative minds, and a perfect place for adda over the simple and hearty Bangali food it serves.

Age before Beauty

The property belonged to a zamindar named Shudheer Das. The spread of the grounds is in the style of a typical zamindar house. It has an open central courtyard flanked by a long veranda attached to the bedroom and living apartments, with a separate section for the dining and drawing rooms.

Before Partition in 1947, the building was used as the office of the daily newspaper Shonar Bangla. By 1951, due to political turmoil, the newspaper owner moved his office to Kolkata and abandoned the property.

Soon after the newspaper left, the property was rented by local neighbour Nalini Mohon Saha, who thought of starting a restaurant and hotel business.

Due to its location in a busy neighbourhood of Banglabazar, which has long been the centre of book publishing, printing and stationery wholesaling, Nalini’s initiative got a great response from the very beginning.

It attracted book traders from all over the country who made regular trips to Banglabazar, and often had to stay overnight.
Nalini named the boarding house after his eldest daughter, Beauty.

First adda

Shahid Qadri, eminent poet and writer of post-1947 modern Bangla poetry, visited Beauty Boarding and asked one of his friends to come over for a chat during his stay there.

That was Beauty Boarding’s first illustrious adda. Gradually the word spread, and more and more names from the cultural arena started to gravitate towards the place. After that there was no looking back.

The availability of tea and snacks at modest rates, accompanied by the calm greenery of the surrounding gardens, attracted people who sought a homey environment for thinking and writing in serenity.

During his stays there, poet and writer Syed Shamsul Huq wrote his novels Ek Mahilar Chhobi (Portrait of a Woman, 1959), Anupam Din (Best Days, 1962), Simana Chhariye (Beyond the Bounds, 1964). The script for the very first Bangla talkie film, Mukh O Mukhosh, was also written by director Abdul Jabbar Khan in the yards of Beauty Boarding.

Legendary poet Nirmalendu Goon made it his home for almost five years, and his autobiography includes a special mention of this place.

Painter Debdas Chakrabartee, and the poets Shamsur Rahman, Abu Zafar Obaidullah, Rafiq Azad and Al Mahmud were among the many who had their evening tea here.

Even the beloved magician Jewel Aich lived in Beauty Boarding when he first came to Dhaka.

All in the family

Nalini initially ran his business with the help of his younger brother Prohladh Chandra Saha. During the Pakistan period, Nalini decided to move to Kolkata with his family, leaving Prohladh with the authority for the business.

In 1971, Prohladh and 17 others – including guests, staff, and some of Prohladh’s friends – were abducted by the occupying Pakistani army and killed.

He was survived by his two sons and wife, who left the country during the Liberation War. They returned after the war, and the business was restarted by Prohladh’s widow. It was then handed over to Tarak Saha, Prohladh’s eldest son, who has been running the business since 1978.

The beauty of Bangali food

Whenever someone mentions the food of old town, the first thing that typically comes to mind is Mughlai delicasies. The cuisine served at Beauty Boarding, however, is of a more home-grown variety. Everyday its restaurant cooks up delicious, authentic-flavoured classics such as shorshey ilish (hilsa fish cooked in mustard sauce), gulsha fish gravy, chicken, spicy lentil soup, vegetable curry and steamed rice – all served in stainless steel plates and glasses.

Two people can feast on a lunch of fish, chicken, lentil, vegetable, and dessert, all for only Tk400.

The restaurant serves lunch to around 120-150 people daily. Book traders still come here for business. Other regulars include neighbours and visitors from new Dhaka, who also frequent Beauty Boarding for its healthy and authentic “Bangali Bhoj” (feast).

For those who fancy an overnight stay, there is a total of 25 rooms in the hotel: 12 single-bed rooms at Tk200 and 13 double-bed rooms at Tk300.

Board of Beautians

The current owner Tarak Saha was a little boy when his mother captained the business. He grew up hearing stories about the addas of the famous personalities who frequented the hotel over the years.

The lost tales from his uncle were somewhat revived when Tarak took the initiative to reunite those writers and poets, who had spent a good amount of quality time here in Beauty Boarding.  In 1994, the reunion of those old “Beautians” inspired them to form a community of Beauty Boarders, who get together here to share fond old memories.

In 1995, they formed an official association under the banner of Beauty Boarding Shudhee Shongho. It also has a 60-member trustee board that has been honouring former “Beautians,” as they call themselves, since 2000.

Reviving a tradition

Although this old Dhaka hotel is is no longer a hotspot, it has not lost its touch. A group of young poets from Dhaka regularly meet at the Beauty Boarding premises. It has also been used as a venue for several exhibitions.

Tarak Saha dreams to recreate the vibrant intellectual adda scene that took place during the Pakistan period and after independence.

While flipping through an autograph book signed by at least 300 renowned personalities who had been guests at the hotel, Tarak says: “I hope to create a platform for young people who can come here and sit for hours and have a productive time.”

He plans to start construction of a library in the hopes of attracting more readers and thinkers.

Tarak admits: “The adda that used to take place here may not be possible in the same manner, as writers no longer need to come to Banglabazar for the printing of scripts. Technology has brought so much change.”

Today, the building and its establishment stands unchanged by time, proud of its legacy.  The banner bearing the names of its writers and poets is one of the first things one sees upon entering the office room.

Tarak also plans to build a monument honouring the 17 martyrs who were killed by the Pakistani army, and install a plaque with all the names of the famous guests Beauty Boarding has hosted over the years.

For a trip down the memory lane of some of our nation’s greatest minds, Beauty Boarding – its corridors, hallways and restaurant – is definitely worth visiting.

Shared from Dhaka Tribune
Link: http://www.dhakatribune.com/weekend/2014/aug/29/art-and-adda-hotel