This is a continuation of Weavers of Bangladesh (Part- 1), where our article was based on Dhaka Muslin. In the second piece of Weavers of Bangladesh, we have provided an insight to the history of Jamdani and the Tangail fabric.
Jamdani is an apt description for exquisitely woven fabric from Bangladesh. Its weavers are considered to be among the best in South Asia even today. It is one of the finest muslin textiles of Bangladesh for centuries. The historic production of Jamdani was introduced by the Mughal emperors. It is the most artistic textile of the Bangladeshi weavers. Traditionally woven and created on the loom brocade, Jamdani is fabulously rich in motifs and presently, it is the most attractive textile of Bangladesh and is worldwide acclaimed.
|Weavers are making Jamdani|
Jamdani has always been very expensive because of the fine quality of fabric and detailed workmanship. The patterns have romantic, poetic descriptions and names. Even today, Jamdani is very expensive and highly sought after. Though mostly used for saris, Jamdani is also used for scarves and handkerchiefs. Jamdani is believed to be a fusion of the ancient cloth-making techniques of Bengal (perhaps 2,000 years old) with the muslins produced by Bengali Muslims since the 14th century. Jamdani is the most expensive product of Dhaka looms since it requires the most lengthy and dedicated work.
|Patterns of Jamdani|
Jamdani patterns are mostly of geometric, plant, and floral designs and are said to originate in Persian and Mughal thousands of years ago.The fabric is woven very much like tapestry work. Small shuttles of colored, gold or silver threads are passed through the weft. It forms an intricate pattern in the body of the fine material. It is usually woven into six yards saris, but nowadays the material is available for kurtas for men and women. The body of the sari is scattered with delicate floral sprays – hence the name jamdani or flower vase.
Jamdanis have different names according to their design (for instance, panna hajar, dubli lala, butidar, tersa, jalar, duria, charkona & many others). Present-day Jamdani saris have on their ground designs of rose, Jasmine, lotus, bunches of bananans, Ginger and Sago. A Jamdani with small flowers diapered on the fabric is known as Butidar. If these flowers are arranged in reclined position it is called Tersa jamdani. There can be designs with peacocks and leaves of creepers. If such designs cover the entire field of the sari it is called Jalar Naksha. If the field is covered with rows of flowers it is known as Fulwar jamdani. Duria Jamdani has designs of spots all over. Belwari jamdani with colorful golden borders used to be made during the Mughal period, especially for the women of the inner court.
Tangail is famous for its handloom saris made of both cotton and silk thread having hand worked butti design or all over flowery design or contemporary art motif appreciated. Some of the Weavers have migrated to India after partition in 1947. These sarees owns the originality of pure Bengali Saree as the colors and designs reflect true Bengali tradition and art. They are more comfortable, durable and pleasant. These Tangail sarees have great aesthetic value as well.
Tangail Sarees are produced in Tangail Sadar, Delduwar upazila and Kaliahti upazila. Pathrail in Delduwar upazila is famous for fine and expensive Sarees. The weavers get purchases from locals and people from overseas. Tangail Sarees: A study performed in 2013 said there are around sixty thousands looms in Tangail. Out of them, near about eight thousand are pit loom, fifty thousands are Chittranjan looms and rest one thousand are energy looms. About 0.35 million workers, financiers and stockholders are linked with the career. The industries have been generating Tangail sarees value Tk 300-Tk 20,000 each.
Tangail Sharee a handloom saree created of both genuine pure cotton and smooth soft silk range having side performed butti design or all over luxurious design or contemporary art motiff respected, bought, and used by women & women of Bangladeshi and Local Indian native resource living all over the globe. Tangail Sarees are familiar at local areas and over the world. Vast number of Sarees are usually promoted on the occasion of Eid, Puja, Pohela Boishakh and Marriage season during the period between November and February.
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